I have been in Spain (physically) since Monday, but am just beginning to realize where I am. I’ve gone to a country where the majority of the people drink coffee (and it’s STRONG), eat fried foods, smoke, get up late and stay out late, leave Sunday completely work-free every week and errand-free, rarely work out, live to talk to anyone and everyone, have one speaking volume (LOUD), aren’t picky about food preparations, aren’t afraid to speak up/take their turn, don’t get anxious about having to stand in long lines everywhere, don’t have a large area of personal space, and aren’t scared to just throw leftovers in the refrigerator without any kind of cover (container, plastic wrap or plastic bag). Essentially I have gone to a country where the majority of the population is in complete opposition of the essence of me.
But I knew what I was getting myself into. I remember lots of things from my life here almost a decade ago. So I was prepared for the loud voices and screaming kids that could be heard from my window throughout the night. And for the bath that isn’t a tub, but isn’t a real shower either- the kind with the long, hose-like cord with a shower head on the end that doesn’t actually hang overhead, so you never have a free hand. To scrub your shampoo in you have to shut off the water, set down the hose, lather, pick up hose, turn on the water and rinse. Did I mention that you also have to remember to turn on the hot water before you shower? And I was prepared for the stares of shock, horror and confusion as I ran down the street in my running outfit made of a polyester wicking fabric. And I wasn’t as uncomfortable when the store clerk at the department store stood closer to me than I would stand to a friend in a crowded elevator while I looked through the store’s selection of sheets. Those (and others) were all things I expected when I got here, approximately 18 hours after I left Chicago.
At the Sevilla airport, there was a representative from CIEE to escort us to a large bus that would take us to the hotel. Charter bus transportation is awesome when you have two 50 pound suitcases, an overweight laptop case and an over-stuffed backpack to worry about lugging around. I brought way too much stuff. If I had to pack over again, I wouldn’t have brought a large bag of cotton balls (what I was going to use them for, I don’t know), 4 purses, and so many sweaters. I may need the sweaters at some point, but right now, I need tank tops and shorts. Those scientists are really on to something when they talk about places closer to the equator being hotter than those farther away. The mornings are perfect (maybe 50 or 60), but during the day it gets up to 35 degrees Celsius, which I can tell you is hotter than I can stand, especially without air conditioning. Although, that whole Celsius thing prevents me from really understanding how hot it is. Luckily my experience in 10Ks and 5Ks helps me with distances, so I am only a third in the dark when it comes to measurements (as far as weights, I only know that 1 kg is 2.2 pounds).
But back to the hotel, the group of over 100 Auxiliares (my job title in Spanish) stayed at the hotel in Sevilla for 1 or 3 nights. I say these numbers because there was a general labor strike on our scheduled travel day (night 2). For this reason some people left after one night and others left after three. Those that left after one night missed our one day of orientation. I was happy to stay as long as possible, since the hotel had a free breakfast (that I actually missed two days because I got up too late and ran too long. It was worth it though- missing breakfast is less traumatizing than missing running.) So here are my days in Sevilla:
Day One (September 27): arrived at 5:30, went to hotel, met and roomed with Shaelyn, the other English Auxiliar at my school. We had an hour orientation and a tapa and wine/champagne cocktail party. Here’s what was served, to give you an idea of Spanish food: tortilla Española, a steak skewer, salmon on a skewer, calamari, and manchego cheese with a half a grape (on a stick).
Day Two (September 28): Ran along Guadalquivir River in Sevilla. I missed breakfast again. Then we went to 6 hours of orientation (plus lunch of potato and calamari soup with a side of tortilla Española). At the orientation they explained things like how to find an apartment, how to apply for a temporary resident card (and what a hassle it will be), how to get a Spanish bank account and how to get a Spanish cell phone. Afterwards, I went shopping for sheets (beds are different sizes than in the US) and towels (also different sizes, they have a bath towel, medium towel, small towel and washcloth. US hand towels are between the medium and small-sized towels). (As a side note, when I got the sheets to my new bed, they did not fit. I got the smallest (adult) ones that store had, but apparently I am sleeping on a child’s bed. I refuse to use sheets with pink flowers and fairies or racecars on them though, so I’m sticking with the too-large ones.)
This was also the day my CD-ROM drive sassed back to me and told me the Friends DVDs I brought were a different format than that of my CD-ROM drive. I was in no mood to have my computer tell me I couldn’t watch Friends for the next 3 months, and then 4.5 after that. Luckily, we came to an agreement- it would let me watch them, but I would have to admit that my region was now the US. Agreed.
Day Three (September 29): This was the general strike day. As I understand it, those dealing with public transportation/government workers were supposed to strike, along with anyone else who wanted to in order to show their support. That meant that buses didn’t run (with the exception of some essential ones that ran every hour or so), the airport was closed (yup, you read that right), and there were no taxis on the roads. I actually found the decrease in traffic quite nice for running and walking around the city. During the night some people had gone through the ‘downtown’ area putting up stickers on stores saying that they were ‘Cerrado por la huelga’ (closed for the strike). The problem was that not all stores were really closed for the strike. And the stickers they put up were not easily removed. I saw some workers at a coffee shop (Starbucks as a matter of fact) using some sort of scraper and soap and water to get the sticker off, in the hopes of attracting more business. The stickers did the job of confusing the government about how much support the huelga really had.
Anyway, the day began with running along the river again, then I met up with Megan, the person who worked at my school last year (and wanted to go back there, but couldn’t). She told me all about the school and what to expect. We walked around the city all day (I still remember how to get around Sevilla, for the most part!) getting lunch, a Spanish cell phone (call me- incoming calls are free for me, even international) and eating the best kiwi ice cream I have ever had in my life. (Fine, I have never had kiwi ice cream before, but I’m sure this would win anyway.) I think we walked about 10 miles in all. I was exhausted. (How did the Proclaimers walk 500 miles and then 500 MORE?).
Day Four (September 30): This was the first hard day in Spain. I was determined not to miss breakfast, so I got up and dressed and went down to the dining room intending to steal food and bring it up to the room to eat after my run. Unfortunately, the buffet did not cater to take-out. I had a plan though. I piled food on my plate, sat at a table near the door, ate some of the fruit and tortilla Española and then stuffed as much of the rest as I could into my napkin. Then, I ran out before I could be seen breaking any etiquette rules. After my run and shower, I met Megan on the bus so she could show me where to get off in Alcalá and how to get to my school. It took maybe 40 minutes to get to Alcalá on the bus at 11 AM. First, we went to the piso (flat/apartment) to take a look. (There are 3 bedrooms, two bath, a small living/dining room and a small kitchen (by American standards). It’s on the 4th floor of the building and luckily there’s an elevator. I can run 10 miles but I have a hard time with four flights of stairs.) José is one roommate and our spokesman. He also speaks perfect English (if you count British English as perfect English). (NOTE TO JOSE: Don't get a big head about the 'perfect English part')
Next, we stopped over at the school and took a tour and met some of the staff. With nothing left to do in Alcalá, we headed back to Sevilla to get lunch and wait until 6 PM when the Director of the school would pick me and my suitcases up. CIEE had actually given each Auxiliar a bus/train ticket to their town. Since my town is so close to Sevilla, we just got 3 Euros for the city bus. I have enough experience with suitcases on the bus (in the US) to know that the bus isn’t going to allow me to ride with my 2 heavy suitcases and two other overloaded bags, even if I were actually strong enough to lift them all onto the bus. Megan said that last year she tried to take her suitcase on the bus, and when it came the bus driver took a look at her, then her suitcase and then closed the door and drove off. If not for the Director, I would have spent the equivalent of about $45 on a taxi. He not only came to Sevilla to pick me up, he took Megan almost to her house across the city, picked up my new roommate, Clarisse, and her friend in a town about 35 minutes away. He then took her friend back to Sevilla (during the U2 concert traffic) so she could catch a bus to her teaching town. The trip took about 3/3.5 hours total.
José got back from teaching shortly after Clarisse and I arrived. As we unpacked he cooked up some pizzas in the oven. While I was happy to unpack things and looked forward to no longer living out of a suitcase, it struck me that I was going to be here for awhile.
During dinner I learned that Clarisse is from Martinique, an island in the Caribbean. She is a native French speaker, but knows Spanish and can read English and speak a little. I think she is being modest about how much English she knows. After dinner José explained everything about the house (paying rent, utilities, sharing fridge space, how to run the washer, etc.
Day 5 (October 1): Surprise! I got up and went running. But first, I was going to charge my GPS running watch. So I put on the special plug that made it the correct shape to fit in the Spanish plug and then plugged it in. However, there is an important step I forgot: to also attached the voltage converter. As a result of this misstep, it took 10 seconds before I heard a pop and then saw smoke coming from my charger. Luckily, the watch still turns on, however, not for long, since I have no way to charge it. How will I know how far I’ve really run? You are probably thinking, “I swear I just saw someone running without a GPS watch, so I’m pretty sure you could do it too.” Well, as my Dad would say, ‘The cemetery is full of people who didn’t wear GPS watches while running.’. Exactly my point, Dad.
Well, I did end up running without my GPS (I know the suspense of whether or not I went running was killing you). It was my first time running in Alcalá. This town has a lot of hills. I’ll have to take pictures soon, so that you can see what I am talking about and how I am not exaggerating (this time). During my run I found a gym (hopefully with a pool- I’m going to check it out tomorrow) and the big park/trail system. It’s pretty sweet- lots of trees to shade you from the blistering sun and lots of people use it. I even saw another woman runner! I’m not sure what they call the underfooting makes up the trail. The best way to describe it is rock covered up with the native golden-colored Spanish soil.
But the real news of today is that it was the first official day of work, so Clarisse and I made the 15 minute trek through town to get to the school (which is at the top of a hill). Fridays are 2-hour department meeting days. I basically just got my schedule and an employment verification letter (that I need to open a Spanish bank account) and met all the English and French teachers. Meeting so many people meant giving dos besos (the greeting of two kisses) to a total of 9 people, I believe. For a person whose personality profile says that to work best with me, ‘Don’t touch Melissa or her belongings’ it was a big step out of my comfort zone.
I knew this already (Megan had explained it), but the students at the school all learn British English. All books, dictionaries, worksheets and listening activities are in British English. That means both the students and the teachers speak with British accents and say things like ‘whilst’ and ‘fetch me’ and they say toe-mah-toe. So while the students learn British English, I will too. Maybe I will finally understand what Madonna went through.
My schedule is working on Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday, with 2 rotating weekly time schedules. Week A, I work Tuesdays from 9:15 AM – 1 PM., Wednesdays from 4:15-9:00, and Thursdays from 5:30-9. Week B, I have class on Mondays from 4:15-7:45, Wednesdays from 4:15-9 and Thursdays from 4:30 – 7:45. Each Friday I also have to be there from 11-1 for the department meeting. As Megan tells it, there are a few weeks throughout the year where the students have testing, so the Auxiliares don’t have to come to work at all. Last year, one of those weeks was right before Christmas, so she was done with class more in mid-December rather than right before Christmas. Then, near the end of her time in Spain last year, there was another week of tests, so she was done in Mid-May rather than at the end of the month. That’s good news on the one hand, because when else in life will I have this much vacation? If I can save money, it will be great to travel!
After lunch and a siesta (best sleep I’ve had since I got here), Clarisse and I went to an Internet place and checked our e-mail for about an hour. I tried so hard to get into Facebook, but since the Spanish keyboard is different (for example, the 7 key has the / above it and the / and the @ symbols require three fingers to appear. Not to mention that the : is where the . key is and the ñ key is where the colon is on the American keyboard. All of this mixed-up key placement made it impossible for me to type my Facebook password correctly. My fingers can type the password on their own (on a US keyboard), but it’s not correct on the Spanish one when they make the same movements. (My fingers flail about as if independent from my body. HA.) That, coupled with the e-mails from home that made me miss it already, brought me to watery eyes in the Internet place. A trip to the Chinese store next door made it a little better. I got some hangers (15), toilet paper and a Tupperware-style container (for my leftovers, of course). All for about $7.50 (5.40 Euros). I'm sure I'll be going back for more later- it’s like a Target away from home.
On the agenda for tomorrow: more exploration of the large park/trail system, a visit to the gym to scope out a pool and membership prices and a trip to the bank to open an account. The last two are probably not possible on a Saturday and I’ll have to push them to Monday. Also on the schedule for this week- Wednesday at 9 AM in Sevilla I have the first of many appointments to get my temporary residency card. I’m sure that will come with a great story or two.
Spanish culture note: un toque is what it means to call someone on their cell phone and hang up after one ring. Because cell phones are so expensive to use here in Spain, people don’t talk on them long. And if they can avoid talking on them at all, they do. So, if you are meeting a friend somewhere, and you want to let them know you have arrived, you give them un toque (a touch, or maybe it could be translated like the Facebook ‘poke’). Note: Incoming calls and texts on my cell phone are free (from ANYWHERE). It may cost you 25 cents to text me, but think of the joy it will bring me!
-Melissa/Missy